Sardinian papassini: the recipe for All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day

In Sardinian tradition, papassini were among the gifts given during collections for souls. Children went from house to house and received sweets, bread and dried fruit: a gesture through which remembering the dead also became a way for the community to come together.

In several places, the table was also left set on the night between November 1 and 2, in keeping with the belief that the souls returned to their homes. Papassini also had a place on those tables.

The names, dates and customs vary from village to village, as we explain in our guide to Su Mortu Mortu and the festival of souls in Sardinia.

For the dough:

• 500 g 00 flour;
• 200 g sugar;
• 200 g lard;
• 130 g raisins;
• 130 g blanched almonds;
• 120 g eggs, about two medium;
• 80 g lukewarm whole milk;
• 1 g baking ammonia;
• 2 g almond extract.

For decorating:

• 150 g icing sugar;
• 80 g egg whites, preferably pasteurized;
• colored sprinkles, as needed.

1. Soak the raisins in water and drain them. Toast the almonds and chop them coarsely.
2. Dissolve the baking ammonia in the milk. Knead together the flour, sugar and lard, then add the eggs, extract, milk, almonds and raisins.
3. Wrap the dough and leave it in the refrigerator for an hour.
4. Roll out to a thickness of 1 cm, cut into diamond shapes and arrange on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Bake in a preheated conventional oven at 180 °C for about 30 minutes, checking that they turn golden.
5. Beat the egg whites and icing sugar until you have a spreadable icing. Spread it over the slightly cooled biscuits, add the sprinkles and leave to dry on a wire rack.